Can I train today?
Six quick questions about your fingers, your week and your sleep. You get an answer: train hard, go easy, or rest.
?
Answer the questions above.
A rule of thumb for healthy climbers, not medical advice. Pain that's sharp, swollen or lasting needs a physio.
From Blok Sessions, who made this page
Let the app keep count
Log your sessions in Blok Sessions and it keeps count of your training for you. Pro's Workload view shows how this week compares with your usual one, so you see a heavy week before your fingers do.
Questions
Should I climb with sore fingers?
Climb on big holds and easy angles, or train off the wall, and leave the hangboard and hard crimping alone until they feel normal. Pain in a joint or pulley is different: stop, and see a physio if it's sharp, swollen or lasts more than a few days.
How many rest days do climbers need between hard sessions?
Most coaches leave about two days between hard finger sessions. Easy climbing, technique work or strength off the wall can go in between.
Can I climb two days in a row?
Yes, if one of the two days is easy. Two hard days in a row on the same fingers is where most overuse trouble starts, especially on a fifth or sixth climbing day in a week.
Should I climb when I'm tired?
Go easy. Tired climbers move worse and fall awkwardly more often, so keep away from limit moves and stop when the moves get sloppy.